“Yesterday Father Cellarer lent me the jeep. I did not ask for it, he just lent it to me out of the goodness of his heart, so that I would be able to go out to the woods on the other side of the knobs. I had never driven a car before.  … I drove the jeep madly into the forest in a rosy fog of confusion and delight. We romped over trestles and I sang ‘O Mary I love you,’ went splashing through puddles a foot deep, rushed madly into the underbrush and backed out again.

Finally I got the thing back to the monastery covered with mud from stem to stern. I stood in choir at Vespers, dizzy with the thought: ‘I have been driving a jeep.’

Father Cellarer just made me a sign that I must never, never, under any circumstances, take the jeep out again.”

Thomas Merton, The Sign of Jonas

 

 

Willa Cather draws such a captivating picture of the tall grass prairie — the worlds contained in what looks like empty plain — before it was plowed under that I want to drive to Nebraska and see what remains of it, in the old cemeteries where the first homesteaders are buried.

“The great fact was the land itself, which seemed to overwhelm the little beginnings of human society that struggled in its somber wastes.”

I found O Pioneers! more satisfying than My Antonia, which I read years ago. We see Antonia through Jim Burden, and once he grows up, he makes her into an archetype: “a rich mine of life,” the raw, fertile land personified. We get Alexandra Bergson’s story unfiltered by anyone except her creator.

As much pleasure as O Pioneers! and My Antonia brought me, I could not get past the first chapters of Song of the Lark, the final installment of Cather’s prairie trilogy, set in Colorado.

 

 

“It was a country to wake from, happy to have had the dream.”

“All I wanted to do now was get back to Africa. We had not left it, yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie, listening, homesick for it already.”

I picked up Green Hills of Africa this week. It apparently was not much appreciated at the time nor especially valued by later Hemingway scholars.

“Evenly divided between big game lore and salon controversy,” in the words of one 1935 New York Times review*, about sums it up. Of the big game lore, two-thirds is specifically about Hemingway and his friend Karl’s pursuit of kudu, a kind of antelope with exotically curling horns. Karl is lucky and shoots a beautiful kudu the first day. Hemingway is jealous. The next morning, he is not jealous. He will get his kudu. And so he does, many pages of fine country later.

The salon controversy is a fun guessing game with even a little knowledge of Lost Generation writers, though I don’t know and don’t care to look up which female writer got under Hemingway’s skin so thoroughly. But there are conversational asides and stream-of-consciousness meditations about writing and living well that are more and more interesting than “salon controversy.” The accounts of the evenings after a day’s shooting, where most of these asides occur, are a pleasure in general. Fireside conversation between Hemingway, his wife Pauline, and their white guide Pop returns frequently to war, to Pauline’s amusement: “Say, were either of you in the war by chance?”

I can see why one could be put off, by the pile-up of dead animals, the expectation that “Karl shot a larger rhino than I; now I am sad” be taken seriously, the rapturous communing with colonized land, etc. But if you like Hemingway at all, and you’re willing to skim where it gets repetitive, it more or less goes without saying that his safari chronicle will be enjoyable. Green Hills of Africa makes a decent case for the appeal of big-game hunting, despite its being so thoroughly out of fashion now.

Hemingway’s assessment of his own failings is surprisingly affecting; maybe it’s knowing how his life ended. “I was getting the evening braggies,” he says after his triumphant shooting of the kudu; he tells us when he’s been “a four-letter man” and tries to overcome his trophy envy and be happy for his friend Karl’s luck.

The African people in this book do not get to be fully human, and the n word is used repeatedly; if this book is bad or hasn’t aged well, it’s because of those things.

I then read his short story The Snows of Kilimanjaro. Had I read this in college I would have been mesmerized. Today I found it absurd. I like Hemingway, I think he’s worth reading even though women are peripheral and two-dimensional in his world, but there’s no writing good enough to redeem a plot like this for me. A man is dying of gangrene on a hunting trip. He is accompanied by a woman, who has ruined him with her money and her love. He thinks about all the other women who ruined him and forced him to squander his talent. The women have done this by having money, or needs in the bedroom, or simply by living a comfortable life in his view. F. Scott Fitzgerald makes a cameo appearance. Vultures and hyenas circle and the man informs his wife that “love is a dunghill.” Then he dies.

*which continues: “Sometimes dispensing with grammar, Mr. Hemingway decimates the fauna of Kenya, Tanganyika, Northern Rhodesia and the Belgian Congo along with Emerson, Hawthorne, Whittier and Thoreau. The carnage is frightful.”

second review appeared in the NYT two days later. It’s less amusing, but comes to the more useful conclusion that “even if you do not approve very strongly of men who go out and blast innocent rhinos into kingdom come you can still enjoy ‘Green Hills of Africa’ for many other things.”

 

Quartet in Autumn, Barbara Pym

Like Letty, the retiring spinster at loose ends, I failed to make contact with this story. It tugged at the heartstrings, but in the end I couldn’t quite see the characters. Letty, adrift in the world, hesitating to join a fellow solo diner at lunch, seemed the closest to fully alive, for me. Perhaps it’s because I’m not English, and Pym is very much so, though I would have thought the lonely older woman a universal type. Perhaps it’s because I didn’t quite know what to make of the story — there is and isn’t tragedy; there is pointed humor, though not as much as in some of her other work. But it was shortlisted for the Booker Prize and hailed as a “spare masterpiece,” and I jotted down “clever!” on the margin of p. 59 (in reference to what, I can no longer tell), so it seems the Booker committee and I agree that Quartet in Autumn is, all things considered, a good story.

 

At the beginning of 2017 I went on a White family bender. First I re-read E.B. White’s collected essays, which are among my very favorite written things. Then I read the Letters of E.B. White, edited by Dorothy Lobrano Guth. What a task that must have been, assembling seven decades’ worth of letters to and from. Strung together they make a compelling biography. I stayed up late reading it, despite the small person who woke me several times each night. I was somewhat unsettled by how much I enjoyed diving deep into a real person’s life, consuming (that’s the word that kept coming back to me) decades of it at a time.

It led me to read about Katharine Sergeant Angell White, his wife, a legendary New Yorker editor, paragon of good taste, gardener, confidant of Nabokov and Updike (it’s unpleasant, describing women by their relation to men; let’s add “like a cross between Eleanor Roosevelt and Jane Austen,” from the linked New Yorker article, for counterbalance). By all accounts she was interested and interesting, a formidable, aristocratic New Englander; I imagine her speaking like Katharine Hepburn, sharing that early midcentury transatlantic accent along with the distinctive name spelling. The descriptions remind me a bit of my grandmother, also a paragon of good taste; a reader of Updike, the New Yorker and good fiction generally, though I don’t know about Nabokov; and an occasionally formidable figure who was by way of being from New England, though also West Virginia. There was always something aristocratic about her to me, even just her regally upright posture.

I checked out Katharine White’s one published work, Onward and Upward in the Garden, a collection of gardening essays that appeared first in the New Yorker. They initially took seed catalogs as the subject of more or less straight book reviews, without preamble or explanation. I appreciated the novelty and the brisk tone, but gardening has not yet captured my interest, and I returned the book unfinished.

Then I turned to the next generation: Roger Angell, noted baseball writer, retired fiction editor at the New Yorker, and Katharine White’s son from her first marriage. Let Me Finish is his memoir of his 1920s boyhood in New York City — a charmed time in the city’s life, in his telling (the Depression remaining on the periphery of his world), and what he calls a more or less classic, charmed American boyhood — except for his parent’s divorce and his mother’s departure, which he describes with remarkable generosity. He recounts without bitterness the certainly bitter proceedings that ended with his father having full custody, and him and his sister riding the subway down to Greenwich Village to spend weekends with his mother and Andy White. Is Angell fair-minded by nature (he notes that his sister found the divorce much harder to forgive), or is it the perspective that ninety years confers?

The boy Roger comes across as lucky and lighthearted, a talkative enthusiast interested in baseball, of course, but also snakes and a hundred other things. His tale of riding the subway to the Bronx Zoo with a snake in a box, accompanied by “my snakiest friend, Kim,” to present the animal to the surprised, but willing, keepers of the reptile house for an unscheduled check-up feels characteristic.

This Old Man was a more uneven read, collecting as it does letters, two-page reminiscences about Angell’s well-known departed acquaintances (William Shawn, Harold Ross), essays and New Yorker pieces spanning sixty years. It was worth reading for the title piece alone, though, which deals not with the rarefied literary world of his youth and career, but a bit of privilege that landed on him at random. (The essay appears in slightly different form here.) He describes what it’s like to reach 93, to outlive not only two spouses but some of your own children and most of your friends. The sentences I underlined note his surprise that the wish for physical touch, intimacy, never goes away and hardly dims. “Getting old is the second-biggest surprise of my life, but the first, by a mile, is our unceasing need for deep attachment and intimate love,” is the line in the online version.

Even better, though, was his 2012 essay “Over the Wall,” which begins with a list of things his recently deceased wife will never know about about: Obama’s re-election, the Giants’ World Series win. At the end he visits her in the Brooklin, Maine, cemetery: “All [the graves] are worn to an almost identical whiteness … some washed almost to invisibility. … What I noticed most, though — the same idea came over me every time — was that time had utterly taken away the histories and attachments and emotions that had once closely wrapped around these dead, leaving nothing but their families and names and dates.

It was almost as if they were waiting to be born.”

I often wish my cooking style was more “a little of this, a little of that.” When I try to combine fresh local produce and/or top-shelf pantry staples with joyous abandon and a little good olive oil and fleur de sel the results are generally underwhelming. How can so many good ingredients together be so dull? Sometimes the mix is wrong, sometimes the cooking method. Often things will be proceeding apace and I’ll second-guess myself and douse the dish with lemon, basil, vinegar, or cheese, knowing that if nothing else it will taste like one of those and that can’t be all that bad, except that those are accent ingredients for a reason and no one wants to eat a bowl full of balsamic vinegar (well, I don’t).

My desire to produce beautiful, delicious food and say “I just threw this together on the fly relying on quality ingredients and my rock-solid kitchen skills!” is partly due to Pinterest envy, and partly due to a belief that this (minus the boasting) is the essence of good cooking.  I’ve been reading Tamar Adler’s An Everlasting Meal, which is a wonderful book that you should buy, and it is inspiring and instructive if you want to get better at making the food you have good.

Anyway, I am still shaky without training wheels (=recipes), which is why dinner tonight was such a triumph. I had on hand cooked quinoa, rapidly rotting grape tomatoes, a drawer full of corn, and the usual other suspects: onions, dessicated herbs, butter.

I sliced and separated half an onion into strips. I cut the kernels off one ear of corn and quartered about 10 grape tomatoes. I melted about a tablespoon of butter in a skillet, added the onions and cooked them gently over low heat til they caramelized, about 20ish minutes. Then I added the corn and some salt and pepper, decided it needed some liquid to cook in, and had a stroke of genius. Sweet corn should cook in sweet wine. I poured in a shot glass of Riesling, a shot glass of water, and then only narrowly avoided the steam burn my home ec (“Teen Living,” actually) teacher used to warn us about. “Waft, waft,” I heard her shout as I lowered my face into the deliciously boozy mist.

Covered the pan and let the corn cook on low heat for somewhere between 5 and 10 minutes. In between stirring and sniffing I chiffonaded about 15 leaves of basil and finely chopped 2 green onions. Once the corn seemed just cooked enough I tossed in the green onions and tomatoes, stirred gently, and let them cook for a few minutes, still on low heat. Then in with the quinoa til it just warms up and the tomatoes have begun to break down a little (I might skin them next time, since I hate errant tomato skins).

I took a trial bite and between the butter, sweet corn, sweet wine, and caramelized onions, this dish needed a dash of something sharp. I grated about a ¼ of a lemon’s zest into the pan, then squeezed about a half-tablespoon of lemon juice in and scraped all along the bottom of the pan. Into a serving bowl, top and toss with basil (you want a lot of basil). Perfect, perfect, perfect.

Pancakes, in order:

1. Clinton Street Baking Company, depending on how long you waited for a table

2. Barley flour-orange juice pancakes from King Arthur Flour

3. Latkes, depending on severity of oil-spatter injuries

4. From a box, but only if Golden Malted

5. Clean-out-the-icebox pancakes, depending on how sour the scavenged milk is

6. Galette jambon-fromage, but only sans oeuf

8. Blintzes

9. Racing pancakes

10. Fannie Farmer’s Griddlecakes

Several days before Christmas I found myself in the grocery store in a Grinch-like mood. I muttered, probably audibly, to myself about the juggernaut of forced joy and the steamroller of excess and a simple celebration that had inflated to horrific proportions and reduced my wallet to whimpering. I reached for angrier and darker superlatives as I stalked the aisles, until I realized I had two good friends still to take care of. A foul mood became an angry panic. What to do? I was not going to the mall again. It was too late to order something online, and besides, when I’m in a rush I make unusual and regrettable gift choices, like a new translation of The Iliad for my fashion-forward cousin, or a scarf for the professional knitter.

Baked goods it was. I had no recipes with me, though, and couldn’t bear the thought of trekking home and back to the store. I needed a recipe on the back of something, anything, available at the supermarket, and the heavens led me to Grandma’s molasses.

What a find. Molasses is not a flavor I grew up with, and my appreciation of gingerbread, the only molasses-flavored good I encounter regularly, is strictly academic – I acknowledge that it is a traditional wintry treat, and that there was an unfortunate time when it was the height of indulgence. My appreciation for these molasses crinkles is sincere and un-academic. They come together in one bowl. They look warm and rustic, their crackled surfaces sparkling with sugar, and they’re spicy-sweet and chewy and tender. A generous helping of thick molasses keeps them moist for days, so they ship well.

Because I like to live dangerously, I played around with a recipe I had never made before and intended to box and mail the next day. I swapped butter for shortening, decreased the sugar, increased the spices, and because orange pairs happily with cloves, ginger, and cinnamon, I grated a fine snowfall of zest over the batter, to delicious effect.

If you’d like to take it up a notch, I suspect these would be transcendent sandwiched around ice cream – vanilla, buttermilk, butterscotch, ginger, or even egg nog.

Molasses crinkles, adapted from Grandma’s Molasses

¾ cup softened butter
1 cup sugar
1 egg
¼ cup molasses
2 ¼ cup flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ginger
½ teaspoon nutmeg
2 teaspoons orange zest
¼ cup sanding sugar, for dipping (optional)

Mix together the butter, egg, sugar, and molasses. Stir in remaining ingredients until just combined, scraping the bottom of the bowl to make sure all flour is incorporated. Cover and chill dough at least 30 minutes and as long as overnight.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and grease a baking sheet. Roll one tablespoon of dough at a time into a smooth ball, dip the top in sugar (sanding if you’ve got it, for extra sparkle, but granulated is fine), and place sugared side up on baking sheet. Sprinkle a few drops of water on each to create a crackled surface, and bake 10 to 12 minutes, rotating pans top to bottom and front to back halfway through. Cool completely on pan (this helps keeps the cookies chewy rather than crisp). Makes about 40 cookies.

Search the food internet for “peanut butter fudge” and you’ll find various gussied-up versions of familiar childhood flavors: peanut butter and candied bacon mousse; peanut dacquoise; peanut butter-honey tart with ganache. When the original is so good, though, why gussy?

Fudge recipes can be divided roughly into two camps: those that require a candy thermometer and/or a softball test, and those that don’t. The latter has you sift confectioner’s sugar into the melted base flavor, which to my taste produces grainier fudge. I wanted smooth and creamy, so I consulted the Joy of Cooking and discovered that the softball test is easier than it sounds, located a recipe buried in the Marshmallow Fluff official website, and went to work.

Have you felt lately that your holiday gatherings have been a little too mellow, a little too sophisticated and grown-up? If the centerpiece dessert was coffee- or booze-flavored, if you had a cheese course instead of a cake, or if anyone bit into a cookie and remarked on its subtlety or complexity, then yes, your party is too grown-up. Peanut butter fudge is the solution. It is sweet, and not subtly so. It contains marshmallow fluff, totally un-ironically. Round up some under-10s and feed them a couple pieces of this. They’ll produce the amount of noise and destruction appropriate to a thoroughly celebrated holiday.

Return them before New Year’s Eve, though. That’s a holiday for grown-ups.

Peanut butter fudge, generously adapted from MarshmallowFluff.com

2 ½ cups sugar
¼ cup unsalted butter
5 ounces (1 small can) evaporated milk
¾ teaspoon salt
1 7 ½ ounce jar Marshmallow Fluff
9 ounces commercial creamy peanut butter
½ cup cold water

Butter a 9-inch square baking pan; set aside. Pour cold water into a small bowl and set aside next to the stove.

Combine the peanut butter and marshmallow fluff in a microwave-safe bowl. No need to mix; just place both in the bowl and microwave for 10 seconds. You’re not aiming to cook the peanut butter and fluff; you want to soften them ever so slightly to make them easier to mix quickly in to the fudge base in the last step. Once softened, set aside.

In large saucepan combine sugar, butter, evaporated milk, and salt. Stir over low heat until blended. Increase heat to medium and bring to a full rolling boil – a pot full of big bubbles that don’t dissipate when you stir. Boil, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes.

Conduct soft-ball test: drizzle a bit of the sugar-butter-milk mixture into the bowl of cold water. Fish it out – it’s at the softball stage if you can roll it into a ball with your fingers and it has a slight chewiness when you bite into it. If it’s not at that stage, boil an additional minute. Err on the side of underdone. Totally underdone fudge won’t set, but moderately underdone fudge can be helped along with a thorough chilling. Overdone peanut butter fudge resembles sand and is similarly inedible.*

Remove from heat and quickly stir in marshmallow fluff and peanut butter until thoroughly blended, scraping down bowl to make sure no ribbons of peanut butter or fluff remain. Turn into greased pan, smooth top, and let cool at least 4 hours or preferably overnight. Makes two and a half pounds of fudge that will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator.

*”Fudge crumbles,” as I tried to brand them, aren’t even good on ice cream. The gritty texture is just too unpleasant.

My family celebrates Christmas on Christmas Eve. We eat dinner, and then after sleigh bells are heard outside (or, when animated chatter drowns out the bells, Santa texts my grandmother) we open presents. Then we go to midnight Mass.

One memorable year, people began to pile into cars to head to church and my parents, my sisters and I looked at each other and realized that not a one of us could drive, because we had all sampled the egg nog. Just sampled – egg nog is much too rich to consume in excess. But a punch cup each had turned us into tipsy church truants. Black sheep for the night, we tidied up the wrapping paper and ate all the cookies, and presented ourselves at church the next morning, meek and fully sober.

Which is all to say that this egg nog is not to be missed. It does not taste eggy or boozy, but – dangerously – like the most festive milkshake in the world.

A stand mixer is essential here. My cousin once made this with a handheld mixer, sitting on the couch with the bowl in her lap watching TV over the whirring beaters for hours. That level of dedication is not for everyone. If you don’t have a KitchenAid, visit someone who does and catch up while the machine does all the work. The long mixing time is absolutely essential: it’s when a  Christmas miracle occurs and a dozen egg yolks and three pints of heavy cream become as light and airy as new snow.

This will make your limbs deliciously weightless and your conversation effortlessly sparkling. I recommend it.

Kentucky Egg Nog , adapted from The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, 1958 edition

Ingredients
12 large eggs
2 pounds granulated sugar
3 pints heavy cream
2 cups bourbon, preferably Knob Creek*
2 cups rum, preferably Bacardi Gold*
1 cup cognac, preferably Courvoisier*
2 cups skim milk
Pinch of nutmeg, for topping

*A note on liquor choice: These are the brands my family uses, but use whatever reasonably good liquor you like. Though eggs and cream cover a multitude of sins, don’t use rot-gut liquor here.

Equipment
Stand mixer
1 gallon container – a rinsed milk carton works well
Large six-quart punch bowl

Time
3 days, most of it hands-off

This recipe makes about six quarts of finished egg nog and serves about 25. It can be halved easily.

Day 1: Separate the yolks and the whites of the eggs. Reserve the whites for the last step. You’ll be storing them in the refrigerator for about 2 days.

Place the yolks in a 4 to 5 quart bowl and slowly begin mixing. With the motor running, add the sugar very slowly. You will have a very thick mixture. Let it mix for about 10 minutes.

Slowly add bourbon and rum and blend on the lowest setting for about 30 minutes. Stop the mixer and scrape down the bowl with a spatula, being sure all the yolk-sugar mixture is dissolved by the liquor. Re-start the mixer and let it slowly stir the liquid for 15 more minutes. Add the heavy cream and let the mixer stir for an hour.

At this point you should have almost a gallon of liquid. Pour it into a clean gallon-sized container and refrigerate for at least 24 hours.

Day 2: Add 1 cup of cognac to the mixture in the container and stir or gently shake to combine. Return it to the refrigerator for another day.

Day 3: Remove the container from the refrigerator and gently agitate to counteract any settling that may have occurred. Pour the contents into a large six-quart bowl (this can be the bowl you plan to serve in). Add skim milk to the now-empty gallon container and swish it around to collect any residual base. Pour this into the large bowl.

Whip the egg whites until they are almost stiff – not too stiff and definitely not dry. Stop when the mixture looks glossy and you can create a soft, gentle peak that quickly collapses back on itself.

Place the whipped egg whites on the top of the six-quart bowl containing the nog base. Gently fold the whites in with a whisk. This will take a few minutes and will have to be repeated every so often as the whites will always try to rise to the top.

When it is well-blended and creamy sprinkle or grate nutmeg over the surface. Serve and enjoy.

Any leftover nog keeps for a few days in the refrigerator, though it will gradually lose its creamy, airy texture. It is very good in coffee and I suspect could be churned into a luscious ice cream.